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[ Home > How To Clean Your Engine ] 
How To Clean Your Engine
  Don't forget your car's engine
compartment.
As a young man growing up in
the 60's and 70's, I always cleaned my car's engine when I washed the car. There
was no particular reason I did this, I just felt better driving a car with a
clean engine! Things are different now. I can give you some real good reasons
for cleaning your car's engine besides vanity. First, engine compartments are
getting smaller and more cramped. This concentrates heat and grime closer
to hoses, wires, plastic parts and vinyl trim covers, all of which can
degrade and crack over time. Oh yes, remember that radiator hose that
cost you $2.95 in the 60's? Todays molded hoses can now cost $100 to $150 or
more! That's a pretty good reason to keep them clean and protected. You could
also make the case that a clean engine compartment will increase the resale
value of your car when you go to sell it.
Following is my
system for cleaning engines. I've used this system for decades and never, ever
had a problem but our company's legal advisor insists that I add this
disclaimer: "Always check with your dealer before cleaning the engine for
the first time to determine if there are any special precautions to be taken
with your particular make and model of vehicle."
Proper Engine Cleaning
Upon opening the hood, I want
to remove any loose grime, pine needles, leaves and dead squirrels that are
trapped in the grill or vents. I happen to have a motorcycle dryer (The Black Baron Dryer) that I use to blast off loose debris but compressed air,
a leaf blower, or an old paint brush will work just fine.
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Use a motorcycle dryer or compressed
air
to remove loose engine debris. |
If you do not have a dryer or
compressed
air, an old paint brush will work just fine. |
| Next, I start the car and let
it run for a few minutes. The engine should be warm but not so hot that you can
not lay your hand on it.
Now turn the engine off and block the air intake to
prevent water from entering the engine. If the air filter has
an opening, I will plug it with a rag or fit a plastic bag over the opening with
a rubber band. You may have to follow the air duct to the front grill to find
the opening. |

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Plug air intake with a
rag. |
If you own a collector car with a distributor, you may
want to cover it with a plastic bag or aluminum foil to keep it dry.
Newer vehicles have
sealed coil paks and ignition modules. Over time, seals can become brittle
and crack. If your vehicle is five or more years old, consider covering
coil paks and ignition modules with aluminum foil before cleaning. |
| Now I'll spray the warm engine
liberally with a citrus-based cleaner. I like P21S Total Auto
Wash. I do not
like and do not recommend acid-based engine cleaners. Avoid getting engine
cleaners on exterior paintwork. Total Auto Wash will remove existing wax.
I'll let Total Auto Wash soak on the engine for about 3 minutes.
During this time, I'll use the E-Z
Detail Brush to get into all the nooks and crannies.
Next, I'll rinse the
engine thoroughly with a garden hose set for medium pressure. |

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Spray engine & compartment with
P21S Total Auto Wash. |
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While cleaner is soaking, use the E-Z
Detail Brush to get into all the nooks
and crannies. |
Rinse with a garden hose and inspect
for
any missed grease or grime spots. |
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I'll now go back
and inspect for any remaining grease or grime spots that might require special
attention. If I find any, I will spray the spot again with Total Auto Wash, agitate
the spot with a One
Inch Detailing Brush and rinse.
After the final rinse, I'll
blow the engine dry with my motorcycle dryer. If you do not have a dryer or
compressed air, remove the rag or plastic bag covering the air intake and start
the vehicle. Let it idle for 5 minutes.
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Spot clean remaining spots with
a
One Inch Detail Brush. |
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Note: Some performance engines have deeply
recessed spark plug openings that can fill with water. Remember to wick-out
water with a sponge or blast out water with a dryer before starting the car.
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Protect and Beautify
After everything is dry and
the engine is cool, apply a protective dressing to rubber hoses, wires, vinyl
and plastic shields. I use 303 Aerospace
Protectant. I'll spray the top and
sides of hoses and then use a cloth to treat the underside of the hose. If your
engine has a plastic cover or heat shield spray and wipe that with 303 also.
Wipe off excess protectant
with a dry cloth.
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Spray hoses, wiring, plastic &
vinyl
with 303 Aerospace Protectant. |
There are spray-and-walk-away
engine dressings but I'm not a big fan of these products unless you're driving
directly to your dealer to sell your car. These dressing stay wet for days and
attract dust and dirt. I find that after 5 days your engine is dirtier than if
you had done nothing.
Finishing Touches
This Mini Cooper has
silver painted metal framing on either side of the engine. I mist and wipe
this paintwork with BLACKFIRE Ivory Carnauba Spray
Cleaner/Wax. I also use this to spray and wipe any black metal engine cross
members and on painted metal air cleaners. This is a little extra effort
but it only takes a minute and it makes the entire engine sparkle.
On the picture below, the black
panels on either side of the engine that form the wheel arches are plastic
not metal. The black heat shield on top of the engine is also plastic, not
metal. You can use 303 Aerospace Protectant on these surfaces for a satin
finish but I prefer to mist and wipe these panels with BLACKFIRE
One Step, Plastic Cleaner, Polish & Glaze. The
Blackfire Plastic Cleaner wipes off very easily and leaves more of a
shine.
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I use BLACKFIRE Ivory Carnauba Spray
Cleaner/Wax on Silver body framework. |
Black wheel arch panels here are
plastic.
I treat these with BLACKFIRE One Step
Plastic Cleaner, Polish & Glaze. |
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Before cleaning. |
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After cleaning. |
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