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[ Home > Remove Scratches Using the Porter Cable 7424 Polisher ] 
Remove Scratches Using the Porter Cable 7424 Polisher
  Removing scratches using
the Porter Cable polisher.
Removing a scratch requires
you to remove the layer of paint or clear coat that contains the defect. This is
best accomplished by compounding and polishing with a circular polisher (Makita
9227, Dewalt
849).
That said, minor scratches can
be easily removed with a dual-action polisher like the Porter
Cable 7424 and deeper scratches can be made much less noticeable.
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The procedure requires spot compounding with a wool pad, spot polishing
with a foam pad and finishing with your favorite wax or paint sealant.
Compounding abrades away the area surrounding the scratch to the lowest
point of the scratch. This makes the scratch |

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Dual-action
polishers may
not be able to completely
remove all scratches.
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Polishing fills any trace of the scratch and restores surface gloss.
Finishing protects the surface with your favorite wax or sealant. These
are the same three steps used by automakers, detailers and body shop
technicians. |
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Dual action polishers trade safety for ultimate paint
cutting ability. Since the pads oscillate (jiggle) rather than rotate,
dual action machines can not abrade away enough of the top clear coat to
completely remove deep scratches. On the plus side, this random,
oscillating motion makes dual action machines very safe for novice
users. It is virtually impossible to damage the paint or clear coat with
a dual action polisher.
Since we are working
on a small, specific paint defect, I chose to use the Spot/Scratch
Repair Kit which includes a 3-1/2 inch wool compounding disc
and a 3-1/2 inch White Foam Polishing Pad. Using these smaller pads
gives me more control over the area being compounded and leaves
surrounding areas unaffected. If I were removing swirls or scratches on
an entire panel (i.e. the hood) I would have chosen full size wool discs
and foam pads.
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Product requirements:
Procedure:
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Scratch directly
above driver's door.
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Step 1 - Compounding
- Place the 3-1/2 inch wool polishing
disc on the 2-3/4 inch backing plate and attach to your
machine polisher using the adapter (if needed).
- Work on a small area, 12 to 18 inches
square, out of direct sunlight.
- Apply compound directly to the
surface.
- Mist the wool disc very lightly with
water.
- With the machine off, spread the
compound (i.e. Menzerna Intensive Polish, Meguiar's Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner) over the
surface using the wool disc. This coats the wool disc with compound
and reduces compounding paint temperatures.
- Press the wool disc against the paint
and turn the machine on. Set the speed dial on the Porter Cable
polisher between 3-1/2 and 4.
- Work the pad over the surface in a
figure 8 pattern. Go over the area in a left-to-right figure 8
pattern and then an up-and-down figure 8 pattern.
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Apply compound to
blemish.
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Put 3-1/2 inch wool
disc
on 2-3/4 inch backing plate.
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Mist wool
compounding disc with water.
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Spread compound with
machine off.
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Set the speed dial
between
3-1/2 and 4,
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Apply compound in
a figure-8 pattern.
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- Go over the area several times or
until the compound starts to dry.
- Inspect the results. Spray the surface
with a 50/50 solution of Isopropyl Alcohol and water to remove
compounding residues and wipe the area dry with a clean Microfiber
towel. (I mark one of the water bottles "Water/Alcohol"
with a Magic Marker to keep them separate) Run your fingertips over
the surface. Is it smooth?
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Remove residues with
an alcohol/water
solution and inspect the surface.
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- Has the scratch or paint defect been
removed? If not, repeat the compounding and inspection procedure
until the scratch is removed or until no further improvement can be
observed. When the surface is as
- defect-free as you can make it,
proceed to Step 2, Polishing.
Compounding may leave
the surface dull depending on the abrasiveness of the compound used. This
is normal. This dullness is removed in the next step which is
polishing.
Polishing is done
after compounding to remove compounding haze (surface dullness).
Polishing restores surface gloss and prepares the surface for waxing.
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Step 2 - Polishing
The procedure for polishing is exactly the same as for compounding with
two exceptions.
- Use the White Foam Polishing Pad for
this step with a finishing polish (i.e. Menzerna Final Polish, Meguiar's No. 9 Swirl
Remover).
- Mist the white foam polishing pad with
water, spread polish over the area and polish in a figure-8 pattern.
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Switch to the white
polishing pad
and apply a non-abrasive polish.
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- To test for results, wipe off
polishing residues with a clean Microfiber cloth and inspect the
surface. (Do not spray the surface with the alcohol and water
solution. This would remove fillers and gloss agents that you
want to stay on the surface.)
If the surface is
still dull, continue polishing. When the haze is removed and surface
gloss looks good, proceed to finishing.
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Step 3 - Finishing
After polishing,
finish with your favorite wax or paint sealant/ protectant. You can do
this by hand or use the appropriate pad or bonnet for your machine
polisher (not supplied in Spot/Scratch Repair kit).
When you're finished,
wash all pads in a bucket with soapy water, rinse thoroughly with a
garden hose and allow to air dry. Do not machine wash or dry pads.
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Apply your favorite
wax or sealant.
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What kind of results can
I expect?
In all cases, this
system will produce better results than could be accomplished by hand.
Using a circular polisher will completely remove swirls, scratches,
paint defects and acid rain, water spots. Using a dual action polisher
will remove minor swirls and visually reduce deeper swirls, scratches
and paint defects. It may not be possible to completely
remove deep swirls, scratches and acid rain water spots using a dual
action polisher .
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Just a faint trace
of the scratch remains.
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It was very hard
to photograph the remaining, faint line. Most people would consider the
scratch completely removed. It might be visible under certain light
conditions (flourescent lights) but is completely invisible from a
distance of 3 feet. This is the best that can be accomplished with a
dual-action polisher. Further improvement would require a circular
polisher (Makita
9227, Dewalt
849). See "Removing
scratches with a circular polisher."
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| Note:
Scratches deep enough to be felt with your fingernail can be made
to look better but probably can not be entirely removed. You should not
attempt to remove scratches that go all the way through the paint or
clear coat. These scratches require re-painting and should be repaired
by a body shop technician. |

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You should not
attempt to remove
scratches that go through the
top clear coat.
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